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February Newsletter

Prepare and Maintain your Home for Spring

In this letter:

Spring Maintenance Checklist

Maintaining Your Home’s Foundation

Moving the Kid’s Smoothly

The #1 problem found by home inspectors

Preparing for a Home Inspection

This newsletter is compliments of 1st Choice Home Inspections (www.1stchoicehomeinspections.biz) Please share this newsletter and information with your friends and family.

Spring Maintenance Checklist



Check your washing machine's water fill hoses for cracks, blisters, corroded fittings and leaks, and replace them if they have any of these conditions. Washer water fill hoses generally need to be replaced every three to five years, regardless of whether there is a visible defect. For even more peace of mind, use stainless steel fill hoses.
Spring rains are not too far away, so it's a good time to inspect your home's sump pump, if it has one. During a rainstorm, water around a house is diverted via pipes into the sump pump pit, and then ejected into the sewer system by the pump. If the pump isn't working, it can cause flooding.
Take a walk on your roof (only if physically able) and look at every square foot for signs of damage. Any sponginess should be checked from the underside. Small problems can be fixed by do-it-yourselfers, but if they grow into larger problems, they could get costly.
Inspect grout and caulk around tubs, sinks and showers. Chip out cracked grout and replace missing grout. Stained, discolored and mildewed caulk should be cleaned with trisodium phosphate or other household cleaner. If the caulk remains discolored, remove it and replace it with fresh, mildew-resistant caulk.
Clogged showerheads are an easy fix. To get rid of mineral deposits, unscrew the head, take the pieces apart and soak them in a bowl of vinegar, brushing out any stubborn sediment. Reassemble the showerhead and reattach.
Turn all water valves off and on to check for leaks and keep valves from sticking. This includes outdoor faucets and valves to toilets, bathroom and kitchen sinks, laundry, bar, etc.
Check your drains to see if they flow freely. If they've begun to slow down, flush them with 50/50 baking soda and vinegar mix. A few minutes now can prevent a visit from a plumber to clear a stopped-up drain.
Test the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater according to the instructions in the owner's manual. Draining a few gallons from the bottom of the tank will help reduce buildup. You'll be increasing the efficiency and longevity of your water heater.
Musty closet odors can be reduced or eliminated by removing the closet's contents and washing walls with a diluted solution of chlorine bleach. In addition, try replacing solid doors with louvered doors. If the mustiness is the result of moisture, find the source and correct it. Otherwise the problem will come back.
Inspect and replace your air conditioning filter once a month. Use your electric bill as a reminder.


Maintaining Your Homes Foundation




Home Foundation Maintenance Tips
Watering your foundation
The primary objective of a foundation maintenance program should be to keep the soil under the house in a uniform and constant moisture condition. This is best achieved by keeping water from accumulating near the foundation to keep the soil from getting too wet (see below) and by adding moisture during periods of dry weather to keep the soil from getting too dry. Dry, cracked soil near the foundation is an indication of both lack of moisture and the presence of expansive soils. Water should be added to soil around the foundation before the soil dries, shrinks and cracks. This is best accomplished by a watering program during periods of dry weather.
A watering program can be accomplished with a sprinkler system or, especially during periods of extremely dry weather, soaker hoses. Remember, however, that soil that is too wet can be just as damaging as soil that is to dry, so monitor the soil so that it doesn’t get too wet and muddy or too dry and cracked or pulled away from the foundation. Other watering tips include watering at night to limit evaporation and watering more often rather than longer to reduce run-off and conserve water.
Planting Beds and Downspouts
Downspouts are designed to channel water from the roof away from the structure. If the downspouts drain next to the structure, especially into planting beds, water can pond near the foundation and cause soil swelling. Make certain that downspouts drain more than 5 feet from the structure and past the edges of planting beds. Also, planting bed edging can trap water near the foundation. Make sure rainwater drains from planting beds by including spaces between brick, stone, and landscape timber edging or by drilling holes at ground level in metal edging.
Grading
When making changes to the grading surrounding your home make certain that water can not pool near the foundation. Also, make certain that a 5% grade is maintained at all times.
5% Grade = 3 inches for every 5 feet
Renovations/Additions
Additions and renovations may disturb the run-off and drainage from your home. Make certain that all drainage and grading is properly maintained to keep water from improperly soaking into the soil near the foundation of the home and the addition.
Air Conditioner Condensation
Air conditioners generate water through the discharge of condensation. Check regularly to make certain that your condensation piping is not clogged. If city codes allow have it drain into your sewer line or at a minimum 5 feet away from the house.
Plumbing
Undetected plumbing leaks can insert undue water into the soil. If you suspect that your plumbing is leaking into the soil, have it tested and if necessary, repaired as soon as possible. Consult your foundation specialist to assist you in determining if the leak affected the foundation.
Landscaping
Bushes and trees remove water from the soil. Trees can soak up to 150 gallons per day. Before making changes to your landscaping make certain that you follow a few simple rules: Keep the future drip line of the mature tree no closer than the edge of the eaves of the roof.




Moving the Kids Smoothly

Moving with a family can be challenging. There are a lot of changes going on for you and your family. That's why it is critical to spend some time helping your kids cope with the changes going on around them. The advice set out in this guide will help your move go more smoothly.
When to Move School Age Kids
When your kids are school age, you might be tempted to plan your move for the school holidays. In reality, this can actually make things harder for your kids. School is most likely the first place your kids can be assured of making friends. Thus, moving during the school holidays places your child in unfamiliar and new surroundings at a time when their chances of making friends are low.
• As school resumes, your child may feel even more left out. As the first day return to school is filled with the excitement and hustle and bustle that occurs after a holiday vacation, your child may feel like a stranger.
• When you schedule your move during the school year, it allows your kids to go from one social setting to another.
• The teacher and the other kids will be more willing to show your child some extra special attention when they are the only new person.
Does Age Make a Difference?
• Generally speaking, the younger the child, the better they will cope with the transition of moving to a new home.
• Very young children and infants may be confused. It is a good idea to try to explain to them what's happening and make it like an adventure.
• The biggest worry that school age children endure is whether they will make new friends and fit in easily a their new school.
• Because teenagers' friends provide them with a sense of identity, it is more difficult for teens to feel comfortable with the idea of moving to a new home.
Before the Move
• As you start making plans for your move, remember to focus on what your kids can look forward to.
• After all, if you see your move as an exciting adventure, your kids will also be very enthusiastic.
• Right from the start, you might want to take them with you on house-hunting adventures. In cases where it might not be practical to have them tagging along, don't forget to bring back pictures of hot prospects you're considering.
• After you've found the new home, be sure to take pictures of local places of interest.
Communication is the Key
• Don't forget to keep the channels of communication open. Before and during your move, encourage your kids to tell you about their uncertainties.
• Most likely, you're probably feeling a little nervous about moving too (no matter how promising your new situation is likely to be).
• After your move, spend time together with your family. Listen to each other's stories so that you can be sure how everyone is coping with the change.
Getting the Kids Involved
It's only natural that your kids will want to be involved with what's going on. Some examples of ways to get your kids involved are:
• Asking them to help plan for and organize your garage sale. They could make colorful posters to stick up around the neighborhood.
• Allowing them to choose a small number of toys or other items to keep with them on moving day.
• Empowering them by letting them pack and label a few of their own boxes
• Making sure they have a special job to take care of on moving day. This will help them feel as if they're making a valuable contribution.
• Allowing them to decide how their new rooms should decorated and arranged.
What About Childcare?
• Undoubtedly you will be offered a lot of conflicting advice whether you should keep your kids with you on moving day or arrange childcare.
• Keep in mind that you are the best judge of what's right for your kids.
Saying Goodbye
• It is critical that your children have the enough time to say good-bye to the family members and friends they're leaving behind.
• You should encourage them to exchange contact information. Fortunately, for most of us today, our friends are only a few keystrokes away via e-mail.
Settling In
Understand that it is like that there may be a grieving period for children…it may last a few weeks, perhaps even a few months. Here are a few easy things you can do to make moving easier for your kids.
• Investigate and explore your new neighborhood together. Look for new and exciting things.
• Go to your new child's school with them beforehand…walk around the new school together to help them find their bearings.
• Accompany your kids on their route to school until they are comfortable traveling by themselves.
• Seek out after-school activities where your children can make new friends with similar interests.
• Don't forget to encourage them to keep in touch with old friends.
Keeping an Eye Out for Early Warning Signs
• A major change is always difficult for a child. Even the most well adjusted child can have difficulty coping with moving.
• Be watchful, it's important to pick up on early warning signs that your child may need extra help adjusting.
Here are some things to watch out for
• Withdrawn behavior
• Loss of appetite
• Problems sleeping, or regular nightmares
• Outbursts of anger or tears
• Reluctance to stray far from the house or family
• Difficulty making new friends
Additional Hints for Moving Kids
• There are children's books that help kids come to terms and understand an upcoming move, and cope with some of the feelings they may be experiencing.
• If you've got young children, it's important to remove dangerous situations and to child proof your home.
The sooner you teach your kids your new address and phone number, the better



The #1 Problem found by
Home Inspector’s


Your home may be part of the 35.8% of homes that are reported to have a drainage problem nationwide. If around your home the basement is wet, the yard is flooded periodically; water ponds on your lawn for long periods after rain, or trees and other plants grow poorly.
There is a difference in the way you handle excess water, depending on whether the problem is with surface water or subsurface water. In some cases, both surface and subsurface drainage systems will be needed in order to solve the problem.
Surface: Every dwelling should have a grading and landscaping plan that provides control of all surface water runoff on the lot. Additions to the landscaping plan, maturity of shrubbery, soil erosion and similar changes tend to change drainage patterns and direction. This surface water is often directed against the foundation wall.

The picture above illustrates the most common drainage problem of a sloping lot. The uphill side of the house must have a drainage waterway (swale) to direct the water around the house. This drainage swale should be at least ten feet from the house and sloped to convey accumulated water away from the dwelling efficiently, and into a proper outlet.
Subsurface: Subsurface drainage systems are generally constructed of perforated, corrugated plastic tubing. Excess water is drained through underground pipelines. The pipelines drain the excess water from the lawn and/or foundations into outlet ditches or storm sewers.
It is a good practice to install subsurface drains, which are at least four inches in diameter and are surrounded with gravel or sand. If at all possible, the drain pipe should have two feet of cover.
Installing suitable downspouts to control roof water may be adequate to prevent ponding in low areas of your yard. Downspouts can empty into a subsurface drain or into outlet spreaders installed to discharge water in a thin layer of a grassy area away from the house foundation.
Seasonal High Water Table: A water table can be defined as the upper surface of ground water of the level at which the soil is saturated with water. This level may fluctuate by several feet throughout the year depending on soil, landscape, and weather conditions. In many areas of Texas the seasonal high water table is one to three feet below the ground surface for four months during the year.

Wet Basements: Water generally enters a basement through the basement wall or through the joints between the basement wall and the basement floor. If water is entering through the wall, the parging (exterior mortar coat) or waterproof seal, is either cracked, too thin or missing, or the footer drains may be inadequate or missing. This can be checked by exposing the exterior wall where the most severe interior leakage is taking place. You can make spot repairs to the parging. If the parging or waterproof seal is missing and the leakage is widely distributed, you need a contractor who specializes in such things. In any case, make sure that the exterior surface grading is taking the water away from the wall before you proceed. If water is entering through the joint between the wall and the basement floor slab, or through cracks in the floor, you have water under pressure beneath the floor. Foundation drains relieve this pressure. If you have water along or beneath the basement floor, your home either does not have footer drains or they are not functioning properly. In most cases, the exterior wall will require excavation down to the footer and a functioning drain installed.
Control of external water around and beneath a house is essential. Mildew, wood-destroying fungi and wet insulation will result when surface water floods or saturates the ground around and under a house. Techniques that will reduce external water problems are:

1) A functioning lot drainage system
2) Properly installed and maintained gutters, downspouts, and drains to conduct the water
3) A waterproofed foundation wall with properly installed footer drains
4) A waterproofed floor slab
5) A sump pump
6) Maintain a minimum of 6” from top of elevation grade to bottom of brick, siding and/or other exterior wall materials

There is no government agency which has any authority to issue orders or otherwise resolve conflicts over water rights or drainage problems between neighbors. The exception may be the few cities which have drainage or storm water ordinances. The Soil and Water Conservation Districts/USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service can assist landowners who voluntarily wish to correct drainage problems.
How To Get Help: Local building suppliers, contractors, county or municipal authorities, or the Soil and Water Conservation Districts/USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service office may be able to provide more information about planning and installing specific drainage measures around your home.

Preparing for a Home Inspection



No home is perfect. Anything from major damage to minor maintenance issues are often found. Even new homes are not immune – they could have problems with the plumbing, electrical system, heating and cooling system, or the roofing system just to name a few.
It’s important to be aware of any issues your home may have prior to putting it on the market. Getting a pre-listing home inspection will ensure that you’re aware of any problems and can take care of them on your terms – or present them as-is and adjust your selling price proportionally. The alternative leaves you open to costly surprises and delays, and even potential deal-breakers once you’ve entered negotiations with the buyer
The inspector will need to have access to the following items and areas to complete the inspection. It would help the inspector and be to your benefit if these areas are accessible:
- Electric panel
- Hot water heater
- Furnace and air conditioning
- Attic access panel / ladder
- Crawl space access panel
Then, before the inspection:
1. Remove soil or mulch that comes in contact with the siding. It would be best to have six inches clearance between the ground and the bottom of the siding.
2. Trim back bushes at least six inches from the siding. Tree limbs and branches should be trimmed to prevent them from coming in contact with your home. This is critical to maintain the life of your roof.
3. Clean dirty gutters and downspouts; check that they drain and are well secured. Downspouts should drain away from the foundation. Splash blocks or buried drains may be needed.
4. Firewood stacked against any part of the structure must be removed.
5. Water must drain away from the home. Downspouts, sump pump and condensate drains, as well as natural drainage, should all flow away from the foundation area.
6. Crawl space should be dry. All vents need to be in working order. Install a vapor barrier if needed. All debris should be removed from this area. If insulated, check that the insulation is secure.
7. Seal, patch and top coat asphalt driveways if cracking.
8. Paint or seal all weathered wood on the exterior. Caulk around trim work, windows, doors, and light fixtures, openings for the gas main or air-conditioning piping.
9, Check your roof’s condition. You will find a pair of binoculars is handy for this. Look for loose or damaged shingles; look at the flashing around the chimney, vent pipes and skylights.
10. Seal or repair any cracks in the chimney’s masonry or chimney cap. Have the chimney cleaned.
11. Failing mortar joints in brick or block should be repointed. Damaged vinyl siding should be replaced, as should damaged or rotten wood.
12. All windows and doors should be in proper operating condition. Any broken window glass or failing double glazed units should be replaced. All damaged screens should be replaced.
13. Plumbing fixtures should be in proper working condition. Inspect the shower, re grouting and caulking any defective areas. Inspect the bathtub, toilet, kitchen, bathroom and laundry sinks; check for dripping faucets, working drain plugs and leaking pipes. Hot and Cold must be designated on faucets..
14. Test all smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
15. Clean or replace air filters on furnace or air-conditioning. Clean dirty air returns, blower motors, etc.
16. Repair any damage to walls, ceilings or floors.
17. Check all outlets and light fixtures inside and outside. Repair any damaged electrical items. Replace missing cover plates and blown light bulbs.
18. Have all utilities (Electricity, Water, Gas) in service and operating
This list is not the complete list a certified professional home inspector will use when your home is professionally inspected. However, many of the items on this checklist, if not repaired, will give the impression to prospective buyers that your home was poorly maintained.
Many of these suggestions cost little or no money at all to do. Good maintenance can make a big difference to the outcome of your homes inspection and ultimately the sale of your house.
NOTE: We recommend that computers are turned off prior to the start of the home inspection. There is a good chance that the electrical supply could be disrupted during the inspection.
We hope this information is an aid in your home inspection, if you would like more help, please contact us.